Recipe Below...
One of the most memorable evenings of our recent visit to Old San Juan included a scrumptious meal savored amidst sleek surroundings at Marmalade Restaurant.
As we began perusing the menu, our server informed us that white bean soup was the specialty of the house. Intrigued, but already knee-deep in tempting choices, we decided to forego the soup.
Following appetizers, our server presented us each with a sampling of the house specialty, compliments of the chef. It was velvety smooth and gorgeous. Topped with chives, bacon dust, and a delicate drizzle of black truffle oil, it was one of the most delicious soups I'd ever tasted. Unable to resist, we ordered a bowl to share.
There are just a handful of soups that I hold in memory as all-time greats. These include my Nana's vegetable soup, a delicate oyster soup at Philadelphia's Pumpkin restaurant, and a savory seafood soup served in a tiny mason jar at Cape Cod's Chatham Bars Inn. I now have another masterpiece to add to my list.
Assuming that restaurant chefs typically don't share their winning secrets, I never ask for one. That night at Marmalade, I broke my rule. I happily learned that the restaurant provides printed copies, as the recipe is so often requested.
Soon after our return home, I set about preparing to make the soup. I contacted Marmalade's Chef Peter Schintler with a few questions. Chef Schintler gave generously of his time and expertise, offering some important tips on technique, included in this post.
Notes:
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This recipe makes a lot of soup. A 16-quart stockpot is necessary to accommodate the entire amount. I make it in 2 8-quart stockpots, dividing the ingredients in half as I go (evenly placing 1/2 of each ingredient into each stockpot).
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I've frozen and reheated this soup with success. So, rather than making just half the recipe, I make the whole amount and freeze several portions.
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Although the recipe calls for navy beans, cannellini beans also work well.
- I've found that the fat is most easily rendered by cooking the bacon in batches in the microwave. A microwave bacon tray with a ridged bottom collects the fat, which can then be easily transferred.
- I cook the celery, onions, and bacon fat directly in the stockpot. This way, the beans and other ingredients can simply be added to the pot.
- A very gentle simmer is indicated by only a few small bubbles sporadically rising to the top, similar to bubbles in a glass of champagne.
The Recipe:
*Please see "notes" section above before making recipe.
2 lb. bag of dried navy beans, soaked in water for 24 hours
12-14 slices of smoked bacon
2 stalk of celery, chopped
1 large white or yellow onion, minced
5 cloves garlic, peeled and whole
2 stems fresh thyme
1 gallon chicken stock
1/4 lb. butter
1 cup heavy cream
Salt & pepper to taste
1/2 cup thinly sliced chives
4 tbsp. black truffle oil
1/4 cup bacon dust
Cook the bacon in a microwave or oven until very crispy. Reserve the fat.
Chop the bacon finely using a knife or food processor, and reserve for garnish.
Gently cook the celery and onion under medium heat in the rendered bacon fat for 6-10 minutes, stirring constantly making sure not to brown.
When onions are translucent, add the soaked beans (drained from water), thyme, garlic, butter, cream and chicken stock. Bring this mixture to a boil, and reduce to a very gentle simmer for 1 1/2 hours while covering the pot with a lid, stirring occasionally.
When the beans are tender and begin to split, remove from heat for 1 hour to slightly cool.
After 1 hour, remove the beans and other solid ingredients (celery, onions, garlic) from the pot, reserving the liquid. Place the solid mixture into a food processor or, preferably, a blender, and slowly add the liquid back into the solid mixture while pureeing to a velvety texture.
*Note: You might find that the desired consistency is achieved without using all of the reserved liquid. Slowly add the liquid mixture to the solid mixture in the blender, pureeing to combine, until a velvety texture and a creamy, but not extremely thick, consistency are achieved.
Adjust salt & pepper.
Garnish with chives or scallions, truffle oil, & bacon dust.
Yields about 8 quarts of soup, or 32 8 oz servings.
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