3 Zesty Lemons

Lemony Shrimp & Linguine

Recipe Below...

Lemony Shrimp and Linguine is a versatile and elegant recipe for any season. It's the perfect light and lemony-delicious dish for a summer evening, or a satisfying solution for comfort food cravings during the colder months.

When I want to whip up an elegant dinner in a short time, this dish is one of my favorite, simple "go-to" recipes. It calls for ingredients usually kept on-hand in the pantry and fridge. I keep 1-lb. bags of raw, frozen, peeled shrimp in the freezer. If I don't have leeks, I substitute with an onion or just omit that ingredient altogether. I usually have fresh flat-leaf parsley on hand, but if I don't, dry parsley flakes can be used as a substitute.

Notes:

• After chopping the leeks, rinse well in cold water to wash away the gritty dirt often found trapped between the layers.
• Adding salt while sauteing the leeks helps the "sweating" process. The salt draws liquid from the leeks, softening them and intensifying their flavor.
• When boiling pasta, always stir in the beginning, then periodically, to prevent the pasta from sticking together. Also, boiling in plenty of water rinses away starch molecules and prevents pasta from becoming heavy, starchy, and sticky.
• For this recipe, I find that quickly rinsing the linguine with lukewarm water yields a finished product with a lighter consistency, that won't taste overly starchy.
• Since this recipe calls for quickly rinsing the pasta, rather than transferring the piping hot pasta from the pot directly into the sauce, timing is important. Follow the recipe closely, to time the pasta so that the sauteed shrimp and pan sauce is completed just as the pasta is ready to be rinsed and drained.
• Mise en place, or having all of your ingredients washed, measured, chopped, and set out before you begin cooking, will help you time this recipe just right.

The Recipe:

1/3 cup olive oil
3/4 lb. linguine
1/2 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 1/2 teaspoons lemon zest
1/8 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, optional
1/2 cup chopped leeks
2 large garlic cloves, minced
1 lb. raw, fresh or frozen shrimp, tails off, peeled and deveined
1 1/4 teaspoons kosher salt, divided
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
2 tablespoons dry white wine
3 tablespoons lemon juice
3/4 cup fresh Italian flat-leaf parsley, chopped
Lemon wedges or slices for garnish
Freshly grated parmesan cheese, optional

Add a tablespoon of kosher salt to a large pot of water and bring to a boil. 

Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large skillet or saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the lemon zest and, if desired, red pepper flakes. Allow the warm oil to infuse with flavor for about 2-3 minutes, then add the butter and heat until melted. Add the leeks and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Saute until soft and translucent, about 8 minutes. 

When the leeks are almost finished sauteing, add the linguine to the boiling water and cook according to package instructions.

Meanwhile, once the leeks are soft and translucent, add the garlic to the saucepan, and saute about 30 seconds until golden, taking care not to allow it to burn. 

Add the shrimp, increase heat to medium-high, and cook, stirring often, until shrimp is almost cooked, about 2-3 minutes. Add the remaining teaspoon of salt, the pepper, and wine. Increase heat and boil for about 2 minutes, until the shrimp are fully cooked and the liquid reduces and thickens little. The shrimp should be pink, moderately firm, and opaque.

Quickly stir in the lemon juice and parsley, remove from heat, and cover. 

When the pasta is finished cooking, rinse it quickly with lukewarm water and drain well. Add the pasta to the saucepan and toss well to combine all ingredients. 

Transfer to a serving dish and garnish with lemon wedges. Sprinkle with freshly grated parmesan cheese if desired.

Yields 4-6 servings.

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Marmalade Restaurant's Amazing White Bean Soup

Recipe Below...

One of the most memorable evenings of our recent visit to Old San Juan included a scrumptious meal savored amidst sleek surroundings at Marmalade Restaurant.

As we began perusing the menu, our server informed us that white bean soup was the specialty of the house. Intrigued, but already knee-deep in tempting choices, we decided to forego the soup.

Following appetizers, our server presented us each with a sampling of the house specialty, compliments of the chef. It was velvety smooth and gorgeous. Topped with chives, bacon dust, and a delicate drizzle of black truffle oil, it was one of the most delicious soups I'd ever tasted. Unable to resist, we ordered a bowl to share.

There are just a handful of soups that I hold in memory as all-time greats. These include my Nana's vegetable soup, a delicate oyster soup at Philadelphia's Pumpkin restaurant, and a savory seafood soup served in a tiny mason jar at Cape Cod's Chatham Bars Inn. I now have another masterpiece to add to my list.

Assuming that restaurant chefs typically don't share their winning secrets, I never ask for one. That night at Marmalade, I broke my rule. I happily learned that the restaurant provides printed copies, as the recipe is so often requested.

Soon after our return home, I set about preparing to make the soup. I contacted Marmalade's Chef Peter Schintler with a few questions. Chef Schintler gave generously of his time and expertise, offering some important tips on technique, included in this post.

Notes:

This recipe makes a lot of soup. A 16-quart stockpot is necessary to accommodate the entire amount. I make it in 2 8-quart stockpots, dividing the ingredients in half as I go (evenly placing 1/2 of each ingredient into each stockpot).
I've frozen and reheated this soup with success. So, rather than making just half the recipe, I make the whole amount and freeze several portions.
Although the recipe calls for navy beans, cannellini beans also work well.
I've found that the fat is most easily rendered by cooking the bacon in batches in the microwave. A microwave bacon tray with a ridged bottom collects the fat, which can then be easily transferred.
I cook the celery, onions, and bacon fat directly in the stockpot. This way, the beans and other ingredients can simply be added to the pot. 
A very gentle simmer is indicated by only a few small bubbles sporadically rising to the top, similar to bubbles in a glass of champagne.

The Recipe:

*Please see "notes" section above before making recipe.

2 lb. bag of dried navy beans, soaked in water for 24 hours
12-14 slices of smoked bacon
2 stalk of celery, chopped
1 large white or yellow onion, minced
5 cloves garlic, peeled and whole
2 stems fresh thyme
1 gallon chicken stock
1/4 lb. butter
1 cup heavy cream
Salt & pepper to taste

1/2 cup thinly sliced chives
4 tbsp. black truffle oil
1/4 cup bacon dust

Cook the bacon in a microwave or oven until very crispy. Reserve the fat. 

Chop the bacon finely using a knife or food processor, and reserve for garnish.

Gently cook the celery and onion under medium heat in the rendered bacon fat for 6-10 minutes, stirring constantly making sure not to brown.

When onions are translucent, add the soaked beans (drained from water), thyme, garlic, butter, cream and chicken stock. Bring this mixture to a boil, and reduce to a very gentle simmer for 1 1/2 hours while covering the pot with a lid, stirring occasionally.

When the beans are tender and begin to split, remove from heat for 1 hour to slightly cool.

After 1 hour, remove the beans and other solid ingredients (celery, onions, garlic) from the pot, reserving the liquid. Place the solid mixture into a food processor or, preferably, a blender, and slowly add the liquid back into the solid mixture while pureeing to a velvety texture. 

*Note: You might find that the desired consistency is achieved without using all of the reserved liquid. Slowly add the liquid mixture to the solid mixture in the blender, pureeing to combine, until a velvety texture and a creamy, but not extremely thick, consistency are achieved.

Adjust salt & pepper.

Garnish with chives or scallions, truffle oil, & bacon dust.

Yields about 8 quarts of soup, or 32 8 oz servings.

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Farro with Butternut Squash and Sausage

Farro, the original grain from which all others have descended, has been carbon dated to 17,000 BC in its undomesticated form.

Firm, chewy farro possesses a nutty, rustic quality that comes together with sweet butternut squash and intensely flavorful Italian sausage to create the perfect one-dish, autumn comfort food.

Recipe below...

Notes:

Farro, long outshined by it's more refined descendants, has enjoyed a recent resurgence in popularity. Farro can be found in the pasta and rice section of many health food and specialty food stores. The farro used in this recipe, farro from Rustichella d'Abruzzo, was purchased online from Market Hall Foods.
Butternut squash, a winter squash variety, is plentiful this time of year. However, if you're looking for a time-saving shortcut, try using frozen, cubed butternut squash.
Fresh sausage from the display case is always the best choice as it imparts a more intense flavor than vacuum-packed or precooked sausage.

The Recipe:

2 cups farro
1 quart chicken stock (optional)
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 1/4 pounds mild Italian sausage, without casing
1 1/2 pounds butternut squash, cut into 1" cubes (fresh or frozen)
1 large yellow onion, roughly chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons fresh thyme, chopped (or 3/4 teaspoon dried)
1 1/2 teaspoons fresh rosemary, chopped (or 1/2 teaspoon dried)
1 1/2 fresh sage, chopped (or 1/2 teaspoon dried)
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
1/4-1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, according to taste
1/2 cup dry white wine
Sprigs of parsley, rosemary, or thyme for garnish (optional)

Cook farro according to package instructions. For added depth of flavor, boil farro in chicken stock, or half chicken stock and half water.

Meanwhile, in a medium-large saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium-high heat. Break or slice sausage into bite-sized pieces, and add to saucepan. Saute until sausage is nicely browned on the outside, and cooked through the center. Using a slotted spoon, remove sausage pieces to a paper towel to drain, reserving the rendered fat in the saucepan.

Add onion, garlic, thyme, rosemary, sage, salt and pepper to the pan. Saute until onions begin to appear translucent, about 3-5 minutes. Add butternut squash. Saute until cooked through, about 3-5 minutes. Add wine to pan. Cook for 1-2 minutes until wine reduces, meanwhile scraping any brown bits from the bottom of the pan.

Drain farro. Combine all ingredients in a large serving dish. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Garnish with sprigs of parsley, rosemary, or thyme (optional).

Serve immediately.

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Braised Short Ribs

Recipe Below...

This recipe, from the October 2008 issue of Bon Appetit, embodies cozy cool-weather comfort food. The simple ingredient list and even simpler slow cooker technique render Braised Short Ribs as easy to prepare as they are scrumptious. An amalgam of rich, hearty flavors and an easy-yet-impressive presentation will make this entree a favorite in your regular rotation.

Notes:

Choose meat that appears bright red and moist, rather than meat that is dry or dark in color.
Purchase your meat in the morning, if possible, as meat may dry out in the open display case. Either prepare the meat immediately, or place it, wrapped, into the refrigerator.
Be sure to have your butcher cut the short ribs along the bone, so that there is one bone in each piece of meat.
Choose short ribs that have a generous amount of white marbling throughout. Marbling represents the fat content dispersed throughout the meat--generous marbling indicates a more tender cut.
Prior to placing the ribs into the slow cooker, trim the fat from the meat side of the rib (the side opposite the bone). Trim any excess fat surrounding the bone, as well. The fat melts down into the sauce, and excess fat may result in an overly greasy sauce.
This entree is amazing right fromt the slow cooker. If you have some extra time, though, the dish will be leaner if it is cooked, cooled, the fat skimmed from the top, then reheated prior to serving.

The Recipe:

Click here for the recipe. (Bon Appetit doesn't allow their material to be posted directly online.)

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Gambas al Ajillo (Garlic Shrimp)

Recipe Below...

Gambas al Ajillo, or garlic shrimp, are traditional, spicy Spanish tapas. In this recipe, slices of garlic, sauteed until golden, are a sweet compliment to spicy red pepper flakes. Olive oil, butter, sherry, and lemon juice come together with herbs and spices to create an irresistable sauce, perfect for dipping into with hunks of crusty French bread.

Notes:

• Traditionally served at room temperature, Gambas al Ajillo serve as a low-fuss, make-ahead appetizer for parties.

• Gambas al Ajillo also make a delicious entree, served warm over a bed of rice.
• It's worth the extra investment to purchase a reasonably priced drinking sherry, rather than a cooking sherry. Cooking sherry is a typically of a lower-quality, with preservative salts added to prolong shelf-life.
• The recipe calls for sweet paprika. The standard paprika available in grocery stores will work. If you have access to a specialty food store, though, the flavor imparted by sweet Hungarian paprika is ideal when making Gambas al Ajillo.

The Recipe:

1/4 cup olive oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
4-5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 small bay leaf
1 lb. fresh or frozen shrimp, shelled and deveined with tails off
2 teaspoons sweet paprika
1/4 cup sherry
1/2 cup fresh Italian flat-leaf parsley, chopped
1 1/2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/2 to 3/4 teaspoon salt, according to taste
1/4 teaspoon black pepper

Melt butter and olive oil in a medium skillet or saucepan over medium-low heat. Add sliced garlic, red pepper flakes, and bay leaf. Saute until garlic turns golden. Be careful not to burn the garlic. Add shrimp, increase heat to medium-high, and cook, stirring often, until shrimp are almost cooked, about 3 minutes. Add paprika and saute about 1 minute. Add sherry and boil for about 30 seconds, until the sauce is a deep orange in color.

Test to make sure the shrimp are cooked through; they should be pink, moderately firm, and opaque. 

Remove from heat. While mixture is still very hot, stir in parsley, lemon juice, salt and pepper.

Remove bay leaf and serve at room temperature, with crusty bread for dipping.

Yields about 6 appetizer-sized servings.

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Grilled Avocado Sandwich with Garlic Spread

There's no shortage of amazing Italian restaurants in Philadelphia. When we moved to the South, I realized I'd taken this abundance for granted.That's why I was so happy to find, just a few blocks from our new home, the delicious Italian cafe that inspired the creation of this warm vegetarian sandwich.

The bright, bold flavor notes of feta cheese, tomato, and garlic compliment the mellow mozzarella and unctuous avocado.

Recipe below...

Notes:

• This sandwich can also be made using a panini or sandwich press. Be careful not to press down too firmly; the avocado is slippery and can be easily pressed out of the sandwich.
• A perfectly ripe avocado will be somewhat firm, yielding only slightly as you press it with your fingers.
• To check for over-ripeness, remove the stem from the avocado. The underside should be a light, whitish-green. If it's dark brown, the avocado is overly ripe and the avocado will likely have brown spots throughout the flesh.

The Recipe:

Sandwich:
1 loaf ciabatta or other Italian bread
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup garlic spread (recipe below)
1 avocado, cut into thin slices, sprinkled with salt and pepper
1 medium tomato, cut into thin slices
10-12 thin slices mozzarella cheese
1/2 cup tablespoons crumbled feta cheese

Remove a small amount of the inside of ciabatta loaf, creating a hollow in the center of the loaf to make room for the filling. Slice the ciabatta loaf, on an angle, into 3-4 sandwich-sized pieces. Slice each piece in half, lengthwise. Brush a small amount of olive oil onto the outside of each piece of bread, so that both the top and bottom halves of each sandwich have oil on the outside of the bread. Slather some garlic spread onto the inside of the bottom half of each sandwich, reserving any leftover spread for a later use. Onto the bottom half of each sandwich, place 2-3 slices of mozzarella cheese, 2-3 slices of tomato, 3-4 slices of avocado, and about 2 tablespoons of feta cheese. Firmly place the top piece of bread onto each sandwich.

Brush a grill pan or griddle with a small amount of olive oil, and place over medium-high heat. Place the sandwiches onto the hot pan. Place a heavy pan on top of the sandwiches to weigh them down, careful not to squeeze the filling out of the sandwiches. After 3-4 minutes, use a spatula or tongs to carefully flip the sandwiches, and another 3-4 minutes, until cheese is completely melted.

Cool for a few minutes and serve.

Garlic Spread:
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1 garlic clove, minced
1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
Salt and pepper to taste
1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil

Place mayonnaise, garlic, lemon juice, salt and pepper in a small bowl. Whisk to thoroughly combine. Slowly add the the olive oil, whisking until incorporated.

Soft Polenta with Sauteed Shrimp

The 2 most memorable polenta dishes I've tasted have both been at restaurants featuring periodically changing menus, which include distinctive and delectable polenta selections. Seems appropriate, as this dish of boiled cornmeal is remarkably versatile.

The dynamic menu at Philadelphia's Mercato BOYB--a charming, sun-filled eatery by day, and a no-reservations hot spot by night--has featured a mouth-watering assortment of polenta dishes, including a creamy Sage Polenta that made my knees buckle in 2006.

My other unforgettable polenta experience was at 28 Atlantic, the expansive oceanfront restaurant located within Cape Cod's landmark Wequassett Inn. The cheesy, firmer textured polenta was presented in tiny, individual cast iron pans.

From it's soft and creamy form to firmer variations presented in medallions or slabs, polenta is enhanced by myriad combinations of herbs, cheeses, sauces, and vegetables.

My creation, Soft Polenta with Sauteed Shrimp, pairs the savory pink beauties with soft and creamy polenta in perfect culinary harmony.

Recipe below...

Notes:

• To avoid lumps, pour the polenta into boiling water in a slow, steady stream while constantly stirring.
• Quick-cooking polenta was a little difficult to find, but I eventually located it online at Market Hall Foods (Lampo). Instant polenta, different from the quick-cooking variety, also works but the texture isn't quite the same.
• Shrimp is properly cooked when it turns pink on the outside. Inside, it should lose its translucence, becoming opaque. When cooked just right, shrimp should be neither soft and mushy nor tough and firm, but should offer just a little resistance to the touch.
• The simple method of sauteing the shrimp with scallions, garlic, lemon, and parsley, and deglazing to acquire an intensely flavorful pan sauce, works well with many finfish and shellfish.

The Recipe:

For the Polenta:
3 cups water
1 cup quick-cooking polenta
1 clove garlic, minced
1 cup fresh parsley, chopped
3 cups chicken stock or broth
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup whole milk (use heavy whipping cream for extra rich and creamy polenta)
1/2 cup Parmesan cheese, preferably Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated

For the Shrimp:
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons scallions or green onion tops, chopped
1 tablespoon lemon zest
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 pound raw shrimp, peeled and deveined, fresh or frozen                                    1 cup fresh parsley, chopped, plus 6 sprigs for garnish
1/4 cup lemon juice
1/2 cup white wine
12 thin slices of lemon for garnish

In a medium saucepan, bring water and chicken stock to a boil. Add the polenta in a slow, steady stream, whisking constantly. Reduce heat to medium-low. Continue to stir constantly until polenta becomes soft and thickened, 5-8 minutes. Add garlic, parsley, butter, milk or cream, and cheese. Stir until all ingredients are combined and butter and cheese are melted. Remove from heat and cover to keep warm.

Meanwhile, melt butter and olive oil in a large skillet or saucepan over medium heat. Add scallions, and saute until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add lemon zest and garlic, saute 1 minute, careful not to burn the garlic. Add shrimp, salt, and pepper. Increase heat to medium-high. Saute until shrimp is almost cooked, about 4 minutes. Add parsley and lemon juice. Saute until shrimp is cooked, parsley begins to wilt, and all ingredients are combined, about 1 minute.

Remove shrimp to a plate. Add wine to pan, increase heat slightly, and reduce until slightly thickened (this will happen quickly), while scraping any brown bits from the bottom of the pan.

To serve, divide polenta among 6 shallow bowls. Top polenta with shrimp and pan sauce, and garnish each plate with 2 lemon slices and a sprig of fresh parsley.

Serves 6.

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Delilah Winder's Macaroni and Cheese

There's no taste like home...

When I lived in Philadelphia, it was a quick 4 block walk from my sunny little Center City apartment to Delilah Winder's original Southern Cuisine stand, located within the famed Reading Terminal Market. Ah, those blissful days...the slightest whisper from my hungry belly and minutes later I'd be diving into a giant Styrofoam container of the unctuous, Oprah-acclaimed goodness.

Recipe below...

Notes:

• Some like it creamy: The depth of the Vietri Square Oven Casserole in the photos yields a creamier mac and cheese (less surface area on top to get crispy and golden).
• Some like it crispy: I've also used a shallow baking dish, resulting in more crispy topping.
• For a golden top, I bake for slightly under an hour, then broil on high for 2-4 minutes.
• Hot sauce is a staple on Delilah's tabletops. Crystal hot sauce, a relatively mild choice, compliments this dish well.

The Recipe:
Source: Delilah Winder, as posted on Food Network Web site

2 pounds elbow macaroni
12 eggs
1 cup cubed Velveeta cheese
1/2 pound (2 sticks) butter, melted
6 cups half-and-half, divided
4 cups grated sharp yellow cheddar, divided
2 cups grated extra-sharp white cheddar
1 1/2 cups grated mozzarella
1 cup grated Asiago
1 cup grated Gruyere
1 cup grated Monterey Jack
1 cup grated Muenster
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon black pepper

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the macaroni and cook until slightly al dente, about 10 minutes. Drain and set aside to keep warm.

Whisk the eggs in a large bowl until frothy.

Add the Velveeta, butter and 2 cups of the half-and-half to the large bowl of eggs. Add the warm macaroni tossing until the cheese has melted and the mixture is smooth. Add the remaining half-and-half, 3 cups of the sharp yellow Cheddar, the remaining grated cheeses, and salt and pepper, tossing until completely combined in the large bowl.

Pour the mixture into 9 by 13-inch casserole or baking dishes (approximately three 3-quart baking dishes) and bake for 30 minutes. Sprinkle with the remaining 1 cup of sharp yellow cheese and bake until golden brown on top, about 30 minutes more.

Serve hot. Yields about 8-10 generous servings.

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