3 Zesty Lemons

Traditional Tabbouleh

Recipe Below...

I was first introduced to tabbouleh at the Lebanese food stand located within a Philadelphia area farmers' market. I would buy the crisp, lemony-fresh salad by the quart and snack on it all week.

The predominant ingredient in the farmers market version was crisp, refreshing parsley. The salad was light on olive oil, and the bulgur wheat remained in the background, providing a contrast to the more plentiful herbs and vegetables.

In contrast, many versions I've since tried are heavy with bulgur and olive oil, slickly coating your lips with a thick layer of the stuff after just a few bites. As I set about researching this post, I learned that lighter versions, featuring parsley as the star ingredient, are more representative of the traditional dish. 

The tabbouleh recipe I've developed is simple and traditional. It has enough bulgur to add texture and depth of flavor, but still allows the herbs and vegetables to shine. 

Notes:

• A high-fiber whole grain, bulgur is available in a variety of sizes. Fine and medium grind are best when making tabbouleh.

• A rich source of Vitamins K, C, and A, parsley also contains folate and iron. Be sure to use the more flavorful flat-leaf parsley, rather than the curly variety.

• Dry your parsley and mint well, and drain your bulgur after cooking. Wet herbs and excess liquid from the bulgur can result in a soggy tabbouleh.

The Recipe:

1 cup bulgur wheat
1 cup boiling water
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon kosher salt, divided
1 teaspoon black pepper, divided
3 1/2 cups finely chopped flat-leaf parsley, washed and dried well
1 cup finely chopped mint leaves, washed and dried well
1 large cucumber, peeled, seeded and diced
1/4 cup plus 1 teaspoon diced shallots
3 cups chopped ripe tomatoes

Place the bulgur into a large bowl with the boiling water, olive oil, 1/4 cup of the lemon juice, 1/2 teaspoon of the salt, and 3/4 teaspoon of the pepper. Cover and allow to soak for 45 minutes, until the liquid is completely absorbed and the bulgur is soft. Place in a fine-mesh sieve or colander, pressing gently to drain the excess liquid. Fluff with a fork.

Add the parsley, mint, cucumber, shallots, tomatoes, 1/2 teaspoon of the salt, 1 tablespoon of the lemon, and 1/4 teaspoon of the black pepper (pepper is optional, according to taste).

Mix well and refrigerate. As the tabbouleh sits, the flavors will marry and improve.

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Leroy's Famous Peanut Brittle

Recipe below...

Southern tradition dictates that local home cooks express gratitude by making their foremost specialty recipe for the person whom they wish to thank.

My husband often has been one of the lucky recipients of a grateful client's prized recipe. Although privy to tales of delectable delights proffered by generous clients, seldom do I partake. Once these toothsome treats enter the office, the staff descend upon them, with hardly a crumb surviving the pillage.

Leroy's Peanut Brittle, many on staff proclaim, is simply the best they've ever tasted.

Notes:

Be sure to use a very tall pot, as the hot liquid may bubble over the edges of a smaller pot.
Be sure to coat the aluminum foil with butter-flavored cooking spray, as traditional cooking spray imparts an unsavory flavor.
Once you pour the hot liquid onto the aluminum foil, work quickly to spread it out into the thinnest layer possible, as it quickly cools and becomes difficult to spread.
Raw Spanish peanuts are a good choice when making brittle. Already shelled and sold in bags, they're available in most grocery stores.

The Recipe:

3 cups sugar
1 cup light Karo syrup
1 cup water
2 cups raw, unsalted peanuts
2 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon baking soda
Butter flavored cooking spray

Special equipment: Candy thermometer

Lay several heavy-duty aluminum foil sheets onto a flat, heat-resistant surface such as a stone or granite counter top. Spray lightly with butter-flavored cooking spray.

In a very tall pot, bring sugar, Karo syrup, and water to a hard boil (about 250 degrees Fahrenheit on a candy thermometer). Stir in peanuts, and continue to boil until the temperature reaches 290-300 degrees, and the mixture becomes golden brown in color.

Remove from heat. Stir in butter, salt, and baking soda. Use caution as the mixture may bubble up.

Pour onto aluminum foil, and quickly spread the mixture into a thin a layer. Allow to cool completely, and break into pieces of the desired size.

Yields 8-10 4" x 4" pieces.

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Classic Pesto

This classic pesto recipe, my husband's longtime favorite, enjoys  a welcome showing each year on his birthday.

Basil is a summer herb that can be expensive and difficult to locate in wintertime. I made and froze this pesto about a month ago, while the weather was still balmy and basil was plentiful here in the South. It thawed beautifully, and tasted fantastic.

Recipe below...

Notes:

If basil is unavailable at the market during winter, ask the chef at an Italian restaurant to order it for you. If I ask the owner of our local Carrabba's in advance, he adds my request to his bulk order and sells it to me year-round.
Pesto will keep in the refrigerator for 6 or 7 days, and can be frozen for up to 1 month.
Try freezing in small containers, thawing a little at a time to use as a spread on bruschetta or panini.
For a big flavor kick, add some pesto to your vegetable soup. Try using it to spice up a roasted pork tenderloin or chicken breast, spread it on as a topping for homemade pizza, or add a dollop to spruce up a Caprese salad.
Since pesto is uncooked, the flavor of the "raw" olive oil is important. Choose a fruity, good-quality, extra-virgin olive oil.

The Recipe:

3 cups fresh basil leaves, loosely packed, washed and dried
3 tablespoons pine nuts
3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese, preferably Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus extra for topping
1/2 teaspoon garlic, minced, according to taste
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4-1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, according to taste
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Place basil, pine nuts, Parmesan, garlic, salt, and pepper in a food processor. Pulse until ingredients begin to combine. With the motor running, slowly drizzle in the olive oil until incorporated.

Toss immediately with hot pasta, and top with freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (makes enough for 1/3 to 1/2 pound of pasta). See notes above for other pesto applications.

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Rosalia's Eggplant Caponatina (Little Caponata)

Recipe below...

Caponata is a traditional Sicilian sweet-and-sour antipasto of cooked eggplant, typically served cold or at room temperature. The name caponatina, or "little caponata", reflects the small dice of the eggplant.

About 4 years ago, my friend Gail brought this caponatina, served bruschetta-style, to our Philadelphia-area supper club. The explosion of sweet and sour flavors is unforgettable to this day. Below is Gail's family recipe, passed down from her Sicilian grandmother, Rosalia.

Tender eggplant serves as a veritable flavor sponge, absorbing the tastes of sweet onion and tangy tomato sauce. Rosalia's Caponatina will make even the most ardent eggplant skeptic into a believer.

Notes:

This make-ahead dish tastes best when served at room temperature, so it's the perfect recipe to bring to a party or to serve as a bruschetta-style appetizer to your guests.
Caponatina may be made the day before and refrigerated; the flavors will marry and intensify overnight.
Serve the caponatina bruschetta-style on toasted bread, as an accompaniment to fish, alone as a cold salad, or tossed with pasta.
The recipe yields a large amount of caponatina. Leftovers can be frozen in jars or plastic containers for later use. Leave about 1 1/2" of room at the top of each container before freezing.

The Recipe:

4 medium eggplants with skins on, washed and diced
1 1/2 cups olive oil
4 sweet yellow onions, sliced
2 cups tomato sauce, preferably homemade
4 large stalks celery, chopped
1/2 cup red wine vinegar
1/4 cup sugar
Salt and black pepper to taste

In a large saucepan, saute onions and eggplant in olive oil, seasoned with salt and pepper to taste, in 2-3 batches, until quite tender. Dice eggplant only when ready to saute the next batch. Remove each cooked batch to a large bowl. Add homemade tomato sauce to the eggplant mixture. Place celery in a separate, small saucepan, with enough water to cover. Cook over medium heat until tender, drain, and add to mixture. Use the same small pan to heat the vinegar and sugar, over medium-high heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Add to the mixture and stir well to combine.  Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Can be served cold, but for optimal flavor, serve at room temperature on slices of Italian bread or French baguette. To toast the bread, brush with a little olive oil and broil for 1-2 minutes per side, or place on a hot grill pan for about 1-2 minutes per side.

Caponatina may also be used as a side dish alone or with fish.

Makes about 20 side-dish sized servings, or enough to top 80 to 100 baguette slices (4-5" long).

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A Lighter Banana-Walnut Bread

Have you ever eaten a piece of pumpkin, banana, zucchini, or cranberry bread only to feel afterward as if you've eaten something as heavy as a slice of pound cake?

If you can relate, you'll love this recipe for a healthier version of the classic banana-nut bread. It's sweet, but not overly so. The recipe calls for less butter than usual. In its place, applesauce provides a light, almost spongy texture that won't leave you with that "rock in the pit of your stomach" feeling. The use of one part whole wheat flour to two parts regular, all-purpose flour adds a wholesome touch without the bland, dry quality sometimes found in breads made with exclusively whole wheat flour. Walnuts, one of the richest nut sources of omega-3 fatty acids, are the final healthy touch, as well as a crunchy compliment to the moist, sweet texture of this delicious bread.

Recipe Below...

Notes:

• This bread freezes well. Rather than tossing that bunch of very ripe bananas, make a loaf or two to keep in the freezer.

• It's important to ensure accurate measurement of dry ingredients such as flour, which may have become densely packed during storage. Too much flour can result in a dry bread. Try spooning, rather than scooping, the flour into your measuring cup.

• Reducing the sugar content of quick breads and cakes can result in a dry texture, so don't cut the sugar too much when you're trying to lighten up a recipe.

The Recipe:

4 very ripe bananas
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup whole-wheat flour
1/3 cup sugar
1 egg
2 tablespoons butter, softened
2 tablespoons applesauce
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 cup walnuts, chopped

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease 1 large, 2 medium-sized, or 3 mini loaf pans. In a large bowl, use a potato masher or fork to mash the bananas until smooth. Add the next 10 ingredients (flour through baking powder), and mix thoroughly. Using a wooden spoon or spatula, gently stir in the chopped walnuts. Pour batter into the loaf pan(s), and bake for 60 to 70 minutes, or 45 to 55 minutes if you are using mini loaf pans. Allow to cool.

Serves 10-12 people.

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Simple Tomato Sauce

Marinara sauce, or sailor-sauce as translated from the Italian, is a simple sauce of tomato, garlic, and herbs. A few additional ingredients, including wine and onions, exclude this recipe from the traditional definition of marinara sauce. Nonetheless, it's a quick, versatile, tomato-based vegetarian sauce.

Recipe below...

Notes:

• Simple tomato sauce is delicious and versatile. Toss with pasta or vegetables, brighten up a grilled cheese sandwich, or use as a topping for homemade pizza.
• This is an easy make-ahead sauce. It can be kept for up to 5 days in the refrigerator, or up to 2 months in the freezer.
• Freeze in small portions for future use, thawing only the amount needed.
• For the best flavor, it's important to begin with whole, peeled tomatoes, which are then crushed by hand.

The Recipe:
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 yellow onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
2 teaspoons tomato paste
1/3 cup red wine
2 28-ounce cans whole peeled tomatoes, crushed, juices reserved
6-8 large, fresh basil leaves
2 teaspoons sugar

Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onions and saute until translucent, 5-8 minutes. Add garlic, salt, and pepper. Saute until garlic begins to turn a golden color, about 2 minutes. Add tomato paste, saute 1 minute. Add white wine, cook about 1 minute. Add tomatoes with their juices, basil, and sugar. Bring to a boil, stirring to continue to break up any large chunks of tomato. Reduce heat and simmer uncovered for 25-30 minutes, until sauce thickens. Season with additional salt and pepper to taste, if desired. Discard basil leaves.

Makes about 4 cups, enough to cover 1 pound of pasta with some sauce leftover.

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Grilled Avocado Sandwich with Garlic Spread

There's no shortage of amazing Italian restaurants in Philadelphia. When we moved to the South, I realized I'd taken this abundance for granted.That's why I was so happy to find, just a few blocks from our new home, the delicious Italian cafe that inspired the creation of this warm vegetarian sandwich.

The bright, bold flavor notes of feta cheese, tomato, and garlic compliment the mellow mozzarella and unctuous avocado.

Recipe below...

Notes:

• This sandwich can also be made using a panini or sandwich press. Be careful not to press down too firmly; the avocado is slippery and can be easily pressed out of the sandwich.
• A perfectly ripe avocado will be somewhat firm, yielding only slightly as you press it with your fingers.
• To check for over-ripeness, remove the stem from the avocado. The underside should be a light, whitish-green. If it's dark brown, the avocado is overly ripe and the avocado will likely have brown spots throughout the flesh.

The Recipe:

Sandwich:
1 loaf ciabatta or other Italian bread
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup garlic spread (recipe below)
1 avocado, cut into thin slices, sprinkled with salt and pepper
1 medium tomato, cut into thin slices
10-12 thin slices mozzarella cheese
1/2 cup tablespoons crumbled feta cheese

Remove a small amount of the inside of ciabatta loaf, creating a hollow in the center of the loaf to make room for the filling. Slice the ciabatta loaf, on an angle, into 3-4 sandwich-sized pieces. Slice each piece in half, lengthwise. Brush a small amount of olive oil onto the outside of each piece of bread, so that both the top and bottom halves of each sandwich have oil on the outside of the bread. Slather some garlic spread onto the inside of the bottom half of each sandwich, reserving any leftover spread for a later use. Onto the bottom half of each sandwich, place 2-3 slices of mozzarella cheese, 2-3 slices of tomato, 3-4 slices of avocado, and about 2 tablespoons of feta cheese. Firmly place the top piece of bread onto each sandwich.

Brush a grill pan or griddle with a small amount of olive oil, and place over medium-high heat. Place the sandwiches onto the hot pan. Place a heavy pan on top of the sandwiches to weigh them down, careful not to squeeze the filling out of the sandwiches. After 3-4 minutes, use a spatula or tongs to carefully flip the sandwiches, and another 3-4 minutes, until cheese is completely melted.

Cool for a few minutes and serve.

Garlic Spread:
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1 garlic clove, minced
1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
Salt and pepper to taste
1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil

Place mayonnaise, garlic, lemon juice, salt and pepper in a small bowl. Whisk to thoroughly combine. Slowly add the the olive oil, whisking until incorporated.

Olive Oil and Fresh Rosemary Cake

Philadelphia is home to more bring-your-own-bottle restaurants per capita than any other city in the country. The recipe for this savory rosemary cake is from one my favorite BYOB spots, Mercato.

Packing a piney punch of fresh rosemary flavor, this moist cake achieves that complex sweet-savory balance of the herbed dessert. It would also be the perfect sweet accompaniment to a wintertime soup or stew, in much the same the way that an herbed cornbread compliments a steaming bowl of chili.

Recipe below...

Notes:

• It's important to ensure accurate measurement of dry ingredients such as flour, which may have become densely packed during storage. Too much flour can result in a dry cake. Use your measuring cup to dig into the container, fluffing to loosen the packed flour.
• Be careful not to overbake--this cake can become dry quickly if baked for just a few minutes too long.
• The chef at Mercato recommends serving Olive Oil and Fresh Rosemary Cake with bitter orange marmalade, or with fleur de sel gelato and braised figs.
• I would also suggest enjoying it with a drizzle of sweet balsamic syrup, or as an accompaniment to a hearty soup or stew, such as white bean.

The Recipe:

4 eggs
3/4 cup sugar
2/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh rosemary leaves
1 1/5 cups unbleached, all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. In a bowl use the whip attachment of a mixer, and beat the eggs for 30 seconds. Add the sugar and continue to beat until the mixture is foamy and pale in color. With the mixer running slowly drizzle in the olive oil. Using a spatula gently fold the rosemary into the batter. In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt. With the mixer on low speed gradually add the dry ingredients to the egg mixture. Pour the batter into a 10 inch loaf pan that has been coated with non-stick cooking spray. Bake for 45 to 50 minutes, rotating halfway through for even coloring. When the cake is done it will be golden brown. Allow to cool.

Serves 8-10 people.

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Zesty Deviled Eggs

Summer's last rays...

Here in the south, the sun is just setting on another summertime season of checkered tablecloths and cold, sweet iced tea. Zesty Deviled Eggs are the season's final twist on a classic picnic offering. In this recipe, dill, whole grain mustard, and champagne vinegar come together to add flair to the traditional deviled egg.

Notes:

• Pierce eggs before boiling to prevent bursting during the boiling process.
• Slightly older eggs are easier to peel. It's believed that the membrane between the egg white and the outer shell weakens with time, allowing the shell to separate from the white more easily.
• A green band between the yolk and white of a hard boiled egg is an indication that the egg has been overcooked. Follow the directions below for perfect hard boiled eggs, every time.

The Recipe:

12 large eggs
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1 teaspoon whole grain mustard
1 1/2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1 1/4 teaspoons champagne vinegar
1 teaspoon dill weed
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
Paprika for sprinkling

Pierce raw eggs and place into a large pot filled with enough water to cover the tops of the eggs by about an inch. Bring to a boil. As soon as water boils, remove from heat and cover for 10-12 minutes. Remove eggs from pot, and place into ice water. Peel the cooled eggs under running water.

Cut each egg in half lengthwise. Remove yolks. In a bowl, mix together egg yolks, mayonnaise, mustard, vinegar, dill weed, and pepper. Arrange whites on a deviled egg platter. Fill each white with the yolk mixture using a  spoon or frosting gun. Sprinkle with paprika.

Makes 24 deviled egg halves.

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Honey Sage Panna Cotta with Toasted Pignoli

My first introduction to savory herbed desserts was on a crisp autumn evening in 2004. I was with friends at an intimate South Philadelphia BYOB, a restaurant known for classic Italian fare with a twist. The evening's homemade gelato selection, the waiter announced, was infused with rosemary. In a collectively daring mood, we decided to give it a try.

My expectations low, I was pleasantly surprised as the gelato exploded, then lingered, on my palate. The depth of flavor, difficult to identify without knowledge of the star ingredient, did not disappoint. The piney rosemary notes paired perfectly with the sweet, creamy gelato. I was sold.

Since that time, my forays into the world of savory herbed desserts have included fluffy lavender marshmallows, olive oil-infused ice cream, and confections of chocolate and rosemary.

Here, I've put together a twist on classic panna cotta. Rosemary is a popular choice among herbed desserts, so, inspired by the gorgeous sage ice cream created by the chef at www.:pastrystudio.blogspot.com, I thought I'd try sage.

Recipe below...

Notes:

• Increasing the lemon zest to 1 1/2 teaspoons will yield a bright, distinctive lemon flavor. One teaspoon of zest, as in the variation below, will result in a subtle, yet still detectable, lemon flavor that does not compete with the sage.
• Use additional unflavored gelatin if you prefer a firmer panna cotta. For a more jiggly variation, use a little less gelatin. Be sure to serve in ramekins, as this variation will not set up firmly enough to be inverted.
• To enhance the flavor: When straining the liquid mixture, be sure to squeeze any liquid from the sage leaves through the strainer.

The Recipe:

1 tablespoon unflavored gelatin powder
2 cups whole milk
2 cups heavy cream
1/3 cup sage leaves, roughly chopped, plus a few whole leaves for garnish
1/4 cup honey
1 teaspoon lemon zest, plus more for garnish
1 teaspoon sugar
Pinch of salt
1/4 cup toasted pignoli, chopped or crushed

Place milk and gelatin in a medium saucepan. Set saucepan aside until gelatin softens, about 3 to 5 minutes. Place saucepan on stove top over medium heat, stirring until gelatin dissolves, about 3 minutes. Add the cream, sage, honey, lemon zest, sugar, and salt. Increase heat to medium and stir constantly, allowing flavors to infuse and sugar to completely dissolve, about 7 minutes. Strain, squeezing any liquid from the sage leaves through strainer. Pour mixture into 5 (6 to 8-ounce) ramekins or panna cotta molds. Refrigerate,  uncovered, at least 5 to 6 hours.

To loosen the panna cotta, dip the bottom and sides of each ramekin in hot tap water for 20-30 seconds. Carefully run a knife along the inner edge of the panna cotta to loosen it from the ramekin. Gently invert onto a dessert plate by placing the plate over the ramekin, and carefully flipping it with the plate held firmly in place. Slowly lift the ramekin, coaxing the panna cotta onto the dessert plate if necessary.

Garnish each panna cotta with crushed toasted pignoli, a few strips of lemon zest, and a sage leaf.

Makes 5 to 6 servings.

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